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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.